Spicy Chicken Wings Run the Show at This Sleek Los Angeles Malaysian Joint

Spicy Chicken Wings Run the Show at This Sleek Los Angeles Malaysian Joint

Briefly

"From its midcentury modern-meets-Art Deco design to a menu that bursts with punchy, sour, and peppery flavors, the restaurant delivers on all promises you might make about Los Angeles's dining scene to out-of-towners coming in for the weekend. Make a reservation and delight in attentive service, a small but mighty wine list, and snacky starters like shrimp chips and ayam berempah (Malaysian-style fried chicken wings swathed in a sweet chile sauce)."

"For fried chicken fanatics, the chile-spiked chicken wings are the star of the show: crispy, spicy, tangy, and sour from its marrying of dried chiles, tamarind, sesame, ginger, and pickled serranos. Mix and match tangy solo skewers from the selection of chicken, pork jowl, and red radish. A sampler plate featuring two of each runs for $30, which is worth it to make sharing with your dining partner less competitive."

"Midcentury cool with muted colors and orb lights looming over each table; the small bar works for pairs, while larger groups should try to get the cavelike banquettes positioned to the right when you walk in. A custom backlit sign changes its message regularly, so be sure to look up, receive the mantra for the evening, and let it guide your night well after dinner."