In 1985, a former cook at Greens, a pioneering vegetarian restaurant in San Francisco, became determined to regain her job. Greens, defined by its innovative meatless versions of traditional French and Italian dishes, attracted culinary luminaries. Shortly after quitting, she recognized it as her best job. She invited her former boss, chef Annie Somerville, to lunch to impress her. Prepared to showcase her cooking skills, she turned to a 1973 cookbook that promised to inspire a meal highlighting her culinary finesse.
Greens embodied the ascetic lushness of the farm-to-table movement, synonymous with the Berkeley restaurant Chez Panisse, delivering innovative vegetarian dishes.
I resolved to make something that would remind her what a great cook I was-a meal that would showcase not just my technical skills but my sophistication.
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