#inner-hebrides

#inner-hebrides

"Here they come," said Mungo Watson, our boat's skipper, with deadpan calm, hands on the helm. I and the crew on deck turned to survey the horizon, then gingerly moved towards the bow of the boat and looked down. "No, not porpoises - dolphins," continued Watson. "For some reason, and still nobody really knows why, they absolutely love boats."

Owning this island means stewarding a timeline that far outpaces modern memory, rich with remnants from both the Stone Age and Iron Age.