"Exclusivity, like any product, gets more valuable the more people want it; it is both the cruellest and the most honest thing that a restaurant can sell. The Eighty-Six, a mega-swank steak house that opened in the West Village last fall, was, from Day One, clubby, celeb-packed, and impossible to get into-no surprise, as it's the latest from Catch Hospitality Group, which previously brought us the impossible-to-get-into Corner Store."
"The door, here, is green and weighty, with a wrought-iron grille over a central peephole, and has been here for ages. The building is the erstwhile home of the infamous speakeasy Chumley's, and its address, 86 Bedford Street, is said to be the origin of "eighty-six," Prohibition-era slang for "Get lost." Like 4 Charles Prime Rib, another well-guarded mega-luxury oubliette in the West Village, with which it draws inevitable comparison, the Eighty-Six is a very good steak house."
The Eighty-Six is a clubby, celebrity-packed steakhouse in the West Village created by Catch Hospitality Group, offering only eleven tables and high-demand exclusivity. The restaurant occupies 86 Bedford Street, the former home of speakeasy Chumley's, linked to the origin of the term "eighty-six." The interior features dark woods, bronzed mirrors, and copper velvets around a working fireplace, with a two-top alcove once favored by F. Scott Fitzgerald. The menu and service match the luxury framing: theatrical cocktails such as an applewood-smoked martini poured over a hand-carved ice stalagmite and rigorously executed steaks.
Read at The New Yorker
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