"Inside the gaping maw: blocks of tongue-red pastrami, rubbed with chaimen (a fenugreek-forward spice rub, also flecked with cumin, garlic and chiles) used to season jerky-adjacent, air-dried Armenian basturma, cured for two weeks and then smoked for 12 hours. The result, beyond beefy intensity, is several textures at once: flaky, taut, buttery."
"Dripping with Gruyère-laced Mornay sauce, this thing is phenomenal, a statement piece of excess and engineering that's gone viral on social media several times over the near-decade the chef has been refining its form via pop-ups and ghost kitchens."
"This is a second-generation son of the city expressing the cooking of his people: clear-cut and personal, shaped by family stories while also informed by academic-level research, a link between there and here, then and now."
Arthur Grigoryan opened Yerord Mas in January 2024 in a former Glendale doughnut shop with his wife Takouhi Petrosyan. The restaurant features a reimagined Armenian menu shaped by family heritage and Grigoryan's culinary training. The signature basturma brisket sandwich has achieved viral social media success, featuring two-week cured and twelve-hour smoked Armenian basturma rubbed with chaimen spice blend, served on fluffy pita with Gruyère Mornay sauce. Beyond this statement sandwich, the concise menu showcases diverse dishes including whirled dips, lemon-mint salads, and vegetarian kyuftah variations. Grigoryan's approach represents second-generation Armenian-American cooking that bridges cultural heritage with contemporary culinary techniques, offering Los Angeles an unprecedented Armenian dining experience.
#armenian-cuisine #basturma-brisket-sandwich #contemporary-fusion-cooking #los-angeles-restaurants #cultural-heritage-cuisine
Read at Los Angeles Times
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