A sandwich doesn't have to have meat to be hearty and delicious. Although there are some disappointing meat-free options out there - mediocre bread topped with bland, ultra-processed "meat" or limp cheese - Los Angeles is filled with many vegetarian and vegan sandwiches that showcase just how great the category can be. These sandwiches really highlight the joy of great produce, something the city has incredible year-round access to.
For years, I've brought friends to Mercado la Paloma, the food hall and cultural center that is home to Gilberto Cetina's Holbox, the seafood counter that was our L.A. Times Restaurant of the Year in 2023 and last year was awarded a Michelin star. These days, there's always a line for Cetina's exquisite seafood plates, including his octopus taco with squid-ink-stained sofrito.