At La Tete d'Or, he scattered French touches throughout, including the classic Lyonnaise salad as a nod to his hometown, tableside carts, and potatoes served eight ways. Plus, there are plenty of exciting options for those who opt out of ordering steak. Frisee rillons - a steakhouse-worthy salad topped with chicken liver croutons and a runny egg. Prime rib - it costs $130, but it's a showstopper carved tableside from a cart, and comes with three greatest-hits sides: creamed spinach, pommes puree, and a popover.
The achar cart at Adda had just rolled up on our right, the wide mouths of the jars filled with pickles of mango, caperberry, and pepper gaping like hungry seals. To the left, the table next to us was enjoying the opening chords of the restaurant's coveted butter chicken service, selecting the wood chips that would smoke their chicken from a different cart.